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The New York Times

Dining & Wine
FOOD STUFF
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Wednesday, August 25, 2004

I love my old-fashioned wooden rolling pins. My favorite is a slender French tapered one without ball bearings. I love the feel of pin on pastry and using the strength of my forearms to expand the circle of tender dough. Nonetheless, I may become a convert to a new rolling pin, the Silpin, a hefty ball-bearing model wrapped in nonstick silicone. I tried it for pāte brise, biscuits and somewhat sticky cream cheese dough, all with excellent results: smooth, even, nonstick rolling.